Phase 5
The next stage is the fun bit, but the most difficult as well, deciding upon the interior layout.
the layouts
Where do you start?
You now have the size of the habitation box. You also have all the appliances etc with there dimensions on the preliminary list. So as always start with pen and paper and sketch out some rough ideas. Don't worry how accurate they are at this stage, just get as many as you can down so you can start to see which is best. Further help can be gained from searching other peoples layouts online. Also go to shows and other camping events to get ideas, you will be amazed at what can be done.
Habitation box for my MAN HX60
With the actual dimensions you can start to produce ideas for layouts.
let the fun begin
Here are some of my early layouts and questions I asked myself along the way.
Do I want a garage with a permanent double bed on top?
Do I want a double bed that could be raised or lower?
Do I want a separate shower and toilet?
How many people do I want to seat?
How many beds do I need?
Where is the Victron system going?
Where are both water tanks going?
Do I have the fuse boxes in the garage or in the main cabin?
What's going in the false floor?
Where are all the boilers and water filtration going?
One tip is to build a scale model out of card board or foam board. It gives a real sense of size and space, and its easy to move items about.
the final layout
After months of deliberation and many layouts the final layout was achieved.
Solar panel positioning
Roof hatches and air condition unit positions
Once construction starts images will be added.
frequently asked questions
Yes. I went to Hobbycraft and bought 10 large sheets of 5mm and 10mm foam board and glue. I have opted for 85mm wall thickness of foam in the actual box. But scaled down using 10mm foam board model will be the equivalent of a 100mm thickness in real life. So I'm 15mm out on scale but I didn't mind that, I could work with that. Once I made the box with the floor and all four walls I then made scaled boxes of each appliance, seats, cabinets, bed etc. These I then placed in various positions until I found the best layout. I did spend a while playing with this, but it was worth it in the end.
After many layouts and using my scale model I eventually came up with my preferred layout. Then looking at Outbound the window and door manufacturers website I looked up all the sizes available then worked them into my design. It didn't take long before I had them where I wanted them, including roof window hatches and equipment access hatches.
Yes. All the window units are made with tempered double glazed panels, with all round seals for airtight fit, and full tilt opening to let fresh air in. The frames are made of GRP and are directly glued to the composite panels with no thermal loss or air bridge gaps. This makes for a perfect fit using the latest construction technology.
The floor again is a composite construction GRP with 120mm foam core insulation, with internal metal structure. The actual floor you stand on will be 18mm Phenolic resin coated plywood.
The box will be using the standard GRP composite panels. These come in a smooth gloss white finish with white ending and corner protectors. Eventually the whole vehicle will be sprayed mainly a grey and black. The the habitation box will be wrapped in a uniquely designed graphic.
Building a 300mm raised floor has allowed us to hide all of the water tanks, boilers and most of plumbing and routing for the wiring. Access points will be made at key locations so major items can still be serviced or changed out if necessary. Also having the water tanks and 99% of the piping inside the insulated box makes for better extreme cold weather situations. Far less chances of water pipes and tanks splitting or freezing.
move on to the next stage of the build
moosejamoffgridandoverland
Stony Stratford, Milton Keynes